Huisinis

On Tuesday July 22, we had our longest day of hiking (about 12 km) from the beach at Huisinis. Huisinis, pronounced hoosh-ih-noosh (or something like that!) is a word derived from Norse which means “house headland”. An apt description as the community consists of four houses at the end of a single track road.

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On the way to Huisinish we stopped at the workshop of Donald John Mackay, a weaver of Harris tweed. In order to be called Harris Tweed, the fabric must be woven on either Harris or Lewis. Donald has been weaving his whole life and learned the craft from his Father. The colours and patterns of the tweed are very much taken from the landscape around the island; the browns, greens and purples seen in the plants and rocks of the hills.

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After marveling over the beautiful tweed, we were off to the beach at Huisinis to start our trek. Given my panic-attack-vertigo-freak-out on the hike over the Quiraing, our guide made sure I knew that we were hiking over a mountain with a rocky, steep path and gave me the option of staying behind on the beach. Those of you who know me will know what I chose. After saying I wouldn’t willingly hike over a mountain again … yup, this time I did it willingly! Happy to report that while the trek was physically challenging, with the help of my amazing sister and a walking pole, I made it over the hill. It probably helped that we were headed for a beautiful looking beach so I was able to focus on that as my goal. In the first photo below, you can see the mountain on the right, with the beach off in the distance on the left.

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Having achieved the beach, we took a short lunch break and then went around the headland of the beach and climbed up to a loch. Truly a beautiful spot, with the freshwater loch butting up against the salt water of the sea. In addition to lots of sheep, we were lucky enough to spot a red deer.

The trek up the hill from the loch back to the mountain path was definitely the hardest part. I honestly wasn’t sure if I could do it but having no choice I just tried to quiet the voice in my head saying “I can’t believe you did this willingly” and keep on putting one foot in front of the other. It was hot, humid, boggy, muddy and buggy – flies, midges and ticks! Making it to the top was a very proud moment – a hot and sweaty, proud moment!!

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After the trek up the boggy hill from the loch, the hike back over the mountain seemed pretty easy! I truly realized how far I’d come (mentally and physically not geographically) when we reached a point in the path where we discovered that the people in the lead had gone off the hiking trail and we were, in fact, about 20 feet below the path following a sheep trail. In order to get back on the trail to get around the headland, we had to scramble straight up the hill. No path, just rocks. No problem!

Back at the van, we enjoyed the cake that our B&B hostess had packed for us and then headed back “home” for the best shower ever!!!!

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Circumnavigating Scalpay

On Wednesday, July 23rd we circumnavigated the island of Scalpay, just off the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. With a population of about 350, most of the islanders make their living from the sea, and the name scalpay comes from the gaelic word for scallops.

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Aside from the heat, this walk was lovely. We hiked up to the headland of the island, then circled around the southern coast with some amazing views out over the water.

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But, wow, was it hot!! Almost 30 degress Celcius with little wind. Our B&B host said that it hadn’t been this hot here in at least 20 years. But, at least it was too hot for the midges!! The sheep also looked very warm and were huddled as close to the cool peat as they could get.

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We did manage to catch some breeze while having our lunch break at the lighthouse. We watched the gannets fish for their lunch by diving into ocean and we even spotted a minke whale swimming by.

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After a cool shower, it was out for a dinner of Harris scallops over some famous Charles Macleod black pudding. Then, back to the B&B to watch the sun set over the tidal flats.

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Counting my fears

Today, I headed out on a hiking journey in Scotland but instead of counting sheep, I ended counting my fears.

Part of the reason to sign up for this week-long hiking trip was to face a challenge. To stretch my body and my mind and to experience new adventures. But today was far more challenging than I ever expected.

We hiked an area of the Island of Skye called the Quiraing. A giant landslip in the northeast part of the island, the Quiraing has large jagged cliffs with a slope that falls away into the green valley below. Our path wound is way up and through the cliffs, rocky face on one side and steep drop off on the other. Rocky and muddy, the path topped out at a windy and misty summit.

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While I knew some of the hiking trip would be difficult, I was not expecting the steep slope or the rocky terrain. It was probably the scariest thing I have done in a long time and most of the four hour hike was spent battling the trail and my fears.

Some of the fears were easily dismissed. The fear of not keeping up? Whatever. The terrain was a challenge and was going at my own speed. The rest of the group could deal.

Fear of physically being able to complete the hike? Well, I could stop and rest when needed. After all, frequent stops for photos was clearly warranted and gave a good chance to catch my breath.

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But the one fear that left me paralyzed and struggling to breathe was the fear of falling. About a year and a half ago, I was diagnosed with a type of vertigo and while I have had a few bouts of room-spinning, this was entirely different.

My body physically felt like it was about to fall. Panic flooded my systems, I couldn’t breathe and my body would not move. Not a step. It was like my body was saying, “we are about to fall to our death, so I’m not moving from this spot in order to save us from that”.

What is frustrating is that my mind knew better. I knew I was okay. There were other people on the trail, I had a climbing pole and I could go as slowly as needed. But my body was not listening.

But since I couldn’t stand on that hillside forever, somehow I had to figure out how to go forwards, despite that fact that it was the last thing I wanted to do. I had no choice but to try and unparalyze myself from the fear.

Since I’m back at the hotel room writing this, you will know that somehow I made it. I talked gently and lovingly to my body, respecting how it felt while trying to keep it moving forwards. My sister helped me, talking to me the whole way, telling jokes and stories to keep me distracted and she even took my camera and took photos so I could see them later. I watched only the path in front of me although I did manage to look up a few times, if rarely down.

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This was my second experience with whatever you call this kind of vertigo panic attack. The first was on Glastonbury Tor last year. From that experience, I learned that sometimes you just have to move forwards through the fear because there is no other choice.

What struck me this time, once the adrenaline had cleared from my system and I was having a nice cup of tea at the end of the walk, was that people say that one of the worst fears is the fear of the unknown.

I’m not sure about that. If I had known at the first upward turn of the path today what was ahead of me, I would not have continued. After struggling through the first of river crossings and down-up that first slippery slope, if I had known that it was but the first of many heart-pounding, breath stealing, panicky stretches of trail then I would not have been able to continue. Hell, if I’d known what that hike was like, I would not have left the carpark!

Perhaps when we face our fears, it’s best not to know what is ahead so we can do it one tiny step at a time. Focus just on the challenge in front of us and not worry about what is next. Perhaps the whole path ahead is too intimidating to think of in its entirety. It can only be traversed one challenge at a time.

Did I have fun? No. Would I ever do it again? Not willingly. Am I glad I did it? Meh, maybe give me a few more days to recover. Am I proud of myself? Hell yes!!!! And I am grateful for everything that my fears and that path taught me today.

And as I take my tired body to bed, I’ll be happy with just counting sheep.

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Saturna Island

This past weekend I sailed away again to one of my favourite places, Saturna Island.

Saturna is a mountainous island located in the Southern Gulf Islands about halfway between Vancouver and Vancouver Island.  One of the things I love is that it takes multiple ferry rides to reach Saturna, giving you that sense of truly sailing away from it all.

 

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From the top of Saturna’s mountain, Mount Warburton Pike, you get amazing views of the Canadian Gulf Islands and the US San Juan Islands.

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But my favourite thing to do on Saturna is explore the amazing beaches.

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At the very southeast of the Island lies East Point. This outcropping of land has amazing views over the water where two ocean currents mix and mingle in Boundary Pass, creating an upwelling of abundant nutrients that then attract a variety of marine animals.  From East Point I have seen whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, otters, eagles and oyster catchers.

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There are lots of deer on the island and other creatures who share the space.

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Fifty years ago at East Point on Saturna Island our relationship to Orcas, or killer whales, began to change. Once called blackfish, Orcas were thought to be dangerous monsters of the sea. In 1964, a young orca was harpooned off of East Point with the intention of killing it and studying it. However, the harpoon did not kill the whale but injured it. As the rest of the pod stayed with the injured whale, trying to keep it alive, the men tasked with killing the whale realized that these animals were not vicious killing creatures but something beautiful and amazing. The whale, Moby Doll, was towed back to the Vancouver Aquarium and studied for almost three months before it passed away. That experience forever changed our understanding of these beautiful creatures.  To hear more about this story, check out this program by CBC’s Ideas.

On our way to Saturna, as the sun set, we were lucky enough to be visited by small pod of Orcas from our ferry.

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