Circumnavigating Scalpay

On Wednesday, July 23rd we circumnavigated the island of Scalpay, just off the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. With a population of about 350, most of the islanders make their living from the sea, and the name scalpay comes from the gaelic word for scallops.

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Aside from the heat, this walk was lovely. We hiked up to the headland of the island, then circled around the southern coast with some amazing views out over the water.

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But, wow, was it hot!! Almost 30 degress Celcius with little wind. Our B&B host said that it hadn’t been this hot here in at least 20 years. But, at least it was too hot for the midges!! The sheep also looked very warm and were huddled as close to the cool peat as they could get.

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We did manage to catch some breeze while having our lunch break at the lighthouse. We watched the gannets fish for their lunch by diving into ocean and we even spotted a minke whale swimming by.

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After a cool shower, it was out for a dinner of Harris scallops over some famous Charles Macleod black pudding. Then, back to the B&B to watch the sun set over the tidal flats.

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Callanish Stones

Yesterday, I visited the Callanish Stones on the Isle of Lewis. While it has been hot and sunny all week in the Outer Hebrides (I got a tan in Scotland?), it was mysteriously misty as a few of us walked amongst the 5,000 year old stones.

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The stones are laid out in a celtic cross formation, with a long avenue of double stones leading in from the noth and then a circular centre with shorter rows leading out in the other compass directions. The stones range from 1m to 5m in height and are made from the local rock, Lewisian gneiss, which is one of the oldest rocks on the planet at 3 billion years. It’s amazing to think of the passage of time since the stones were erected and since those stones were formed. We seem like a small blip on the landscape and yet our ability to change the earth upon which we live is immense.

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In the centre of the circle, a large stone marks where a burial cairn was found with human remains underneath. The meaning of the stones is unclear. Some people think they mark a lunar cycle, some solar, some speculate that they are a landmark that could be seen from far away at sea. Local legend says they are large giants who refused to convert to Christianity and were turned to stone as punishment.

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The Stones also form a relationship with the line of hills to the south, known as the Sleeping Beauty or Cailleach na Mointeach (the old lady of the moors). Once every 18.6 years, when the moon is at its southernmost extreme, the moon seems to rise out of the body of the Cailleach and then appears within the stones of the Callenish circle. And, if someone stands in the southern part of the circle, they appear to be reborn with the moon.

The site was truly spectacular. The lines and colours and striations of the rocks gave them added character and personality and the stones had both a presence and a power. I am so glad I got to visit this amazing place.

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Counting my fears

Today, I headed out on a hiking journey in Scotland but instead of counting sheep, I ended counting my fears.

Part of the reason to sign up for this week-long hiking trip was to face a challenge. To stretch my body and my mind and to experience new adventures. But today was far more challenging than I ever expected.

We hiked an area of the Island of Skye called the Quiraing. A giant landslip in the northeast part of the island, the Quiraing has large jagged cliffs with a slope that falls away into the green valley below. Our path wound is way up and through the cliffs, rocky face on one side and steep drop off on the other. Rocky and muddy, the path topped out at a windy and misty summit.

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While I knew some of the hiking trip would be difficult, I was not expecting the steep slope or the rocky terrain. It was probably the scariest thing I have done in a long time and most of the four hour hike was spent battling the trail and my fears.

Some of the fears were easily dismissed. The fear of not keeping up? Whatever. The terrain was a challenge and was going at my own speed. The rest of the group could deal.

Fear of physically being able to complete the hike? Well, I could stop and rest when needed. After all, frequent stops for photos was clearly warranted and gave a good chance to catch my breath.

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But the one fear that left me paralyzed and struggling to breathe was the fear of falling. About a year and a half ago, I was diagnosed with a type of vertigo and while I have had a few bouts of room-spinning, this was entirely different.

My body physically felt like it was about to fall. Panic flooded my systems, I couldn’t breathe and my body would not move. Not a step. It was like my body was saying, “we are about to fall to our death, so I’m not moving from this spot in order to save us from that”.

What is frustrating is that my mind knew better. I knew I was okay. There were other people on the trail, I had a climbing pole and I could go as slowly as needed. But my body was not listening.

But since I couldn’t stand on that hillside forever, somehow I had to figure out how to go forwards, despite that fact that it was the last thing I wanted to do. I had no choice but to try and unparalyze myself from the fear.

Since I’m back at the hotel room writing this, you will know that somehow I made it. I talked gently and lovingly to my body, respecting how it felt while trying to keep it moving forwards. My sister helped me, talking to me the whole way, telling jokes and stories to keep me distracted and she even took my camera and took photos so I could see them later. I watched only the path in front of me although I did manage to look up a few times, if rarely down.

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This was my second experience with whatever you call this kind of vertigo panic attack. The first was on Glastonbury Tor last year. From that experience, I learned that sometimes you just have to move forwards through the fear because there is no other choice.

What struck me this time, once the adrenaline had cleared from my system and I was having a nice cup of tea at the end of the walk, was that people say that one of the worst fears is the fear of the unknown.

I’m not sure about that. If I had known at the first upward turn of the path today what was ahead of me, I would not have continued. After struggling through the first of river crossings and down-up that first slippery slope, if I had known that it was but the first of many heart-pounding, breath stealing, panicky stretches of trail then I would not have been able to continue. Hell, if I’d known what that hike was like, I would not have left the carpark!

Perhaps when we face our fears, it’s best not to know what is ahead so we can do it one tiny step at a time. Focus just on the challenge in front of us and not worry about what is next. Perhaps the whole path ahead is too intimidating to think of in its entirety. It can only be traversed one challenge at a time.

Did I have fun? No. Would I ever do it again? Not willingly. Am I glad I did it? Meh, maybe give me a few more days to recover. Am I proud of myself? Hell yes!!!! And I am grateful for everything that my fears and that path taught me today.

And as I take my tired body to bed, I’ll be happy with just counting sheep.

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Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies

I wonder what it is about human nature that makes us want to build large sculptures upon the landscape. Whether industrial and functional or purely aesthetic and artform, they certainly make a statement of human interaction with our natural world.

Yesterday, I visited two such sites in Scotland – the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies.

The Falkirk Wheel is the only rotating boat lift in the world and connects the Forth and Clyde Canal with the Union Canal. Opened in 2002, it lifts (or lowers) boats 24 meters enabling the vessels (mostly recreational) to travel all the way from Edinburgh to Glasgow.

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While an impressive technological structure, I found the Wheel equally beautiful in its design. Remarkably quiet in its turning, the strait lines of the canal partner with the curves of the wheel in an artful display of both beauty and function.

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The second stop, the Kelpies, are pure art. The Kelpies are 30-meter high horse heads which just opened to the pubic in April, 2014. Designed Andy Scott they are a monument to horse-powered heritage in this part of Scotland.

Kelpies are mythical transformational water spirits of incredible strength said to live in the lochs and pools of Scotland and who can appear as either horses or humans. According to sculptor Andy Scott “The original concept of mythical water horses was a valid starting point for the artistic development of the structures. I took that concept and moved with it towards a more equine and contemporary response, shifting from any mythological references towards a socio-historical monument intended to celebrate the horse’s role in industry and agriculture as well as the obvious association with the canals as tow horses.”

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While beautiful and wild looking from the park, the Kelpies are especially striking from the highway. You come around a corner, and suddenly there they are, looking just as though they are sticking their heads over the fence, ready to run wild given the chance.

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And surely that desire to run wild and free through the landscape is just as much part of human nature as our desire to build large sculpures.

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Saturna Island

This past weekend I sailed away again to one of my favourite places, Saturna Island.

Saturna is a mountainous island located in the Southern Gulf Islands about halfway between Vancouver and Vancouver Island.  One of the things I love is that it takes multiple ferry rides to reach Saturna, giving you that sense of truly sailing away from it all.

 

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From the top of Saturna’s mountain, Mount Warburton Pike, you get amazing views of the Canadian Gulf Islands and the US San Juan Islands.

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But my favourite thing to do on Saturna is explore the amazing beaches.

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At the very southeast of the Island lies East Point. This outcropping of land has amazing views over the water where two ocean currents mix and mingle in Boundary Pass, creating an upwelling of abundant nutrients that then attract a variety of marine animals.  From East Point I have seen whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, otters, eagles and oyster catchers.

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There are lots of deer on the island and other creatures who share the space.

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Fifty years ago at East Point on Saturna Island our relationship to Orcas, or killer whales, began to change. Once called blackfish, Orcas were thought to be dangerous monsters of the sea. In 1964, a young orca was harpooned off of East Point with the intention of killing it and studying it. However, the harpoon did not kill the whale but injured it. As the rest of the pod stayed with the injured whale, trying to keep it alive, the men tasked with killing the whale realized that these animals were not vicious killing creatures but something beautiful and amazing. The whale, Moby Doll, was towed back to the Vancouver Aquarium and studied for almost three months before it passed away. That experience forever changed our understanding of these beautiful creatures.  To hear more about this story, check out this program by CBC’s Ideas.

On our way to Saturna, as the sun set, we were lucky enough to be visited by small pod of Orcas from our ferry.

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Birthdays and island adventures

My birthday falls somewhere close to the long Easter weekend.  In fact, I was born on Easter Monday.  Which means that I can combine the long weekend with the need for a  birthday treat in order to do something extra special.  And lucky for me, I have good friends who are more than willing to use any excuse to get out-of-town and go on an adventure.

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Birthday cheesecake made by a friend with homemade toasted caramel toasted port!

One of my favourite things to do is rent a cabin on a beach somewhere along the BC coast.  I am blessed to live next to the ocean and within a day’s trip of many, many islands. There is something about sailing away on a ferry that feels like leaving everything behind, no matter how short the ride might be.

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This year we chose Quadra Island. The island is 310 square km in size; it is 32km long and ranges from 2km to 15km wide. Located off the northeast coast of Vancouver Island, it is separated from the island by Discovery passage. Which means that our trip involved one ferry ride from Vancouver to Vancouver Island, then a few hours drive north, and then a short ferry hop across to Quadra.

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The cabin was perfect. A view out overlooking the beach. Hot tub on the deck.  I could lie in bed and watch the waves, and their soothing sound lulled me to sleep and gently woke me in the morning.

The view from my bed!

The view from my bed!

 

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There were lots of hummingbirds, both at the feeder and the flowers.

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The beach was full of character and interesting discoveries. Driftwood that looked like giant sea monsters with eyes and faces, rocks that were full of colour and personality.

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When the tide receded, abundant tidal pools filled with creatures like sea stars and crabs.  And things that eat those things!

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A well camouflaged heron!

 

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And, oysters everywhere.

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I returned a ball to a lovely old dog and met his owners who were harvesting oysters. They offered to shuck one for me to try on the spot. Having never tried this, I gave it a try. It was delicious! I thought it would be gross and gelatinous. Not so. It was lovely and firm, and salty.

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It was a great weekend. There are so many more islands to explore. I hope I have enough birthdays!!!

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